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able breeze had, however, been succeeded by a perfect calm, and the rays of the sun were exceedingly oppressive. As it appeared probable that the men would have to row the whole of the way, we agreed to defer our departure till the evening. This afforded me an oppor-` tunity of attending public worship with the native Christians of the settlement, and addressing the congregation assembled.
The sun was approaching the western horizon, when we took leave of our friends, and embarked, to prosecute the remainder of our voyage. We sailed across the beautiful bay, which for its size has justly been denominated one of the finest in the world, and passing along within the reefs to Maharepa, we again launched our boat, about eight o'clock in the evening.
The excitement of watching, and fatigue of the preceding part of our voyage, having induced a considerable degree of exhaustion of strength and spirits, we had not advanced far upon the open sea, before I became oppressed with a sensation of drowsiness, which I could not remove. During my voyages among the islands, I have passed many nights at sea with the natives in an open boat, and generally found them watchful and alert during the early hours of night, but wearied and sleepy towards morning; and whenever I have felt rest necessary for myself, have usually taken it before midnight, that I might be more vigilant when my companions should become drowsy. This was my purpose in the present instance. The wind had indeed ceased, but the surface of the sea was agitated with a quick and cross motion; the current was against us; and it was uncertain how soon in the morning we should reach Matavai, our port of destination in the island of Tahiti. I therefore
gave Matapuupuu charge of the helm, which I had hitherto kept during the whole of the voyage, and, directing him to awake me in about an hour's time, I wrapped myself in my cloak, lay down upon the seat in the stern of the boat, and, notwithstanding the motion of the sea, and the rattling and shaking occasioned by the movements of the oars, soon fell into a sound sleep.
The refreshing and beneficial effects of my reposc were, however, entirely neutralized by the sensations I experienced at its close. I cannot describe my emotions when I awoke, and found it was broad day-light; and, on turning to the helm, saw Matapuupuu fast asleep, with his hands still on the tiller; and then, looking forward along the boat, on beholding every individual motionless; the rowers leaning over their oars, the others stretched along the bottom of the boat, and every one in the most profound sleep. Before I attempted to awake any one, I involuntarily looked for the island we had left. It was still in sight. I then looked on the opposite side, for that to which we were going. It was also in sight, but the lofty mountains rising at the head of Matavai were far to the north, and indicated that the port to which we were bound was many miles behind us. In fact, we appeared to be about midway between Tahiti and Eimeo, drifting to the southward, far away from both, as fast as the current could bear us.
Fully sensible of our critical situation, if the breeze, which just began to ripple the surface of the water, should increase, I instantly awoke my companions, and asked them how they came all to fall asleep together. They looked confused, on beholding the broad light of day beaming upon them, and replied that each had imperceptibly fallen under the influence of sleep, without
knowing that any other was under the dominion of the same sensation. Recollecting that I had in the first instance set them the example, I could not much censure their conduct. I therefore directed their attention to the mountains in the vicinity of Matavai and Papeete, on Wilks' Harbour, far in our rear; and as Burder's Point was the nearest part of the coast, urged them to apply with vigour to their oars, that we might reach it before the wind became so strong as to arrest our progress.
The men, refreshed by their slumbers, which had been created by the undulating motion of the boat on the water, and having broken a few cocoa-nuts, and drank the milk, cheerfully grasped their oars, and pulled steadily towards the shore. After about five hours' hard rowing, we reached the beach, and were cordially welcomed by our friends, Messrs. Darling and Bourne, resident Missionaries at Burder's Point. In the afternoon, several of the natives, who had accompanied me to Tahiti, set out for Papara, in order to visit their friends, who had accompanied Mr. Davies from Huahine to that station during the preceding year.
I spent this and the following day at Burder's Point. The respect and affection manifested by the people towards their teachers was gratifying, and the general improvement in the habits of the people, and the appearance of the settlement, highly encouraging. Newly planted gardens and enclosures appeared in every direction; several good houses were finished; a number also were plastered and thatched; and others, though only in frame, and presenting the appearance of mere skeletons of buildings, indicated a state of pleasing and progressive improvement. The public burying-ground, situated on the border of the settlement, was kept remarkably neat.
The outline of the grave was defended by a curb, or border, of large fragments of coral planted in the ground, while the grave itself was covered with small pieces of white coral and shells, brought from the adjacent shore. The school was a good building; and the chapel, erected near the ruins of the ancient marae, which I visited during my stay, was one of the most compact I had seen in the Georgian or Society Islands. The walls were framed and boarded; the roof thatched with fara, or palm-leaves. The floor was boarded, the pulpit and appendages remarkably neat, and the whole area of the chapel filled with seats. It was also fitted up with a gallery, the first ever erected in the South Sea Islands; the gallery, and other parts of the interior, which had been finished under the direction and by the assistance of Mr. Darling, were neater, and more European in appearance, than any I had hitherto beheld.
The advancement in civilization had not been so striking or rapid at this station as at some others; the effects of its progress were, however, such as to afford great encouragement, and to warrant the anticipation of its ultimately extending throughout the entire population of a district that had felt the ravages of war, and the demoralization of paganism, as much as any in the South Sea Islands.
About ten in the morning of the 21st, we took leave of our friends at Burder's Point, and, after rowing about four hours between the reefs and the shore, reached Papeete, or Wilks' harbour, where the queen and her sister were residing. On landing, the deputation from the Huahinean chiefs repaired to the abode of Teriitaria, and Matapuupuu delivered their message. She replied, "that she was anxious to remove to Huahine, and would return
with them, if Pomare would allow her to leave Tahiti; but said she would see them again, and, before they returned, deliver her final reply."
On the brow of a hill, forming the commencement of a range extending from the vicinity of the shore to the lofty interior mountains, Mr. Crook formerly, at this station, had erected his abode. Having waited on the queen, and other members of the royal family residing with her, I walked up the hill, which Mr. Crook had designated Mount Hope, and was happy to find himself and his family well. The situation he had selected for his abode, though inconvenient on account of its distance from the settlement, and the fatigue induced by the ascent, has nevertheless peculiar advantages; the air is remarkably pure, the temperature generally cooler than on the adjacent lowlands, and the prospect most delightful and
With his agreeable family I passed the remainder of this day, and the following, which was the Sabbath. The congregation at the public religious services consisted of about five hundred hearers, who were in general attentive; the singing was good, and the voices of the men better than I ever heard elsewhere. The female voices are generally clear and distinct, and they sing well in most of the stations, but the voices of the men are seldom mellow or
About ten o'clock on the following day I took leave of the friends at Mount Hope, and, accompanied by the chiefs from Huahine, preceeded to Matavai, where Pomare resided. It was near noon when we arrived, and soon after landing, the messengers waited upon the king, told him they had been sent by the chiefs of Huahine, to request Teriitaria to return and reside there, and expressed