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A Voyage from St. Domingo to New Orleans; Part of a Tour round the World, by PAGES, Captain in the French Navy, Knight of the Order of St. Louis, and Correfpondent of the Royal Academy of Sciences.

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IFFERENT circumstances re

to the fervice of the French navy, to which I have the honour to belong, induced me to form a plan to gain a knowledge of the Indian feas, and to proceed thither by a western courfe: I propofed afterwards to cross China, and penetrate, by way of Tartary, to the fea of Kamfchatka. My intention was to fearch for a northern paffage, by pursuing the north coaft: the mode I intended to adopt in the profecution of my defign appeared to me very ea; I defigned to accuftom myfelf to the manners and cuftoms of the northern people, to adopt their mode of living, join them in their hunting parties, and by that method convey myfelf from village to village along the fea-fhore: by these means, I could not fail either to difcover the paffage to the north of Siberia, or to be af fured of its non-existence, if the continuation of the coaft fhould conduct me to North America. This fecond part of my project I was obliged to relinquish, as I found it impracticable to procure the means neceffary to crofs China.

Whenever I have read the history of a traveller, wandering over unknown countries, I felt a fenfible emotion. The conquests of the Europeans in the two Indies, the attempts and difcoveries of the Ruffians to the north-east of their empire, an ambition to atchieve fome great enterprize, but, above all, an invincible defire for whatever could bring me acquainted with the primitive fimplicity of uncul tivated nature, beautiful in its original ftate, fuch as I imagine it to be when it came firit from the hands of the Creator, abforbed every faculty of my foul. I judged that a want of patience and perfeverance, and a deVOL. XII. No. 70.

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their rank and knowledge, are alone proper to be employed in fuch enterprizes, were the principal obstacles that often rendered them unfucceffful: I thought that a hard and laborious way of life, fupported by conftancy and courage, would infure fuccefs; I was, befides, impreffed with an opinion that the more fimple and uncultivated, the lefs wicked mankind is; and that, with an cafy difpofition and a fimplicity of manners, in living, acting, and thinking, a man is better received among unpolished people, than in the most polite cities, where oftentation neceffarily excites defire, the parent of avarice and fufpicion. Thefe opinions fet my project in a favourable light, caufed every difficulty to difappear, and ferved to confirm me in my defign.

Such was the fituation of my mind, when my duty called me from Rochford to the Island of St. Domingo ; of this ifland I fhall not speak, as both the courfe thither, and the country itfelf, are well known.

In confequence of the obftacles to which I attributed the bad fuccefs of former adventurers, I accustomed myfelf to what was to me a new and plain mode of living: I had not then difcovered whether it was really the beft, but adopted it from neceffity, not being poffeffed either of fortune or credit fufficient to enable me commodioufly to make fo long a journey among favage nations, or fuch as were but little advanced in çivilization; and among others, who permit the ap proach of ftrangers with impatience, but whofe country it was neceffary to crofs. I haftened the execution of my plan, taking, however, every necef fary precaution to infure its fuccefs :

and

and as fome favourable circumstances occurred which could feldom bave happened together, at any other time, or at any other place, than at Cape Francois, where I then was, I fixed my refolution, without more delay.

I embarked in a French veffel for New Orleans, hoping for fuccefs from Providence, from my refolution and patience, and from the moft fimple and laborious mode of life, the habituating myfelf to which would render the fatigues of the journey and fuch bodily labour as I might be compelled to, by circumstances, more fupportable. I looked for every obftacle, that I might not be furprized by any. New Orleans having been juft ceded to Spain, I hoped I fhould be able to find means there to cross the country between the river Miffifippi and the Rio-bravo or Grande, which laft river divides New Spain from Louifiana: this tract of country is inhabited only by favages. The diftance, though very confiderable, did not appcar fufficient to impede the execution of my defign, and I flattered myfelf I fhould be able to penetrate into New Spain by the frontiers of New Mexico.

We failed from Cape Francois the Taft day of June, 1767, intending to pals through the Old Straits. The wind being eafterly, we ftood to the W. N. W. we afterwards kept a little farther from land, by fteering N. W. and paffed about eight leagues to the northward of St. Nicholas Mole.

Continuing the fame courfe, and with the fame wind, we foon after faw the Island of Cuba, and running along it, had fight of Cape des Mulas, defigning to fteer for the fmall islands of Palumas and Sable, which form the entrance of the Old Siraits, towards the fea. To be certain of making thofe islands, which are very low, we were particularly attentive to get a fight of Cape des Mulas, for the continuation of the coaft of Cuba is not eafily perceived, and it is neceflary to

have a good pilot to come near it. The Palumas are on the larboard, and the Island of Sable on the ftarboard fide of this channel in this part it is about 15 leagues broad, and does 60 leagues farther. not widen confiderably until about

the fea, is formed of rocks, banks, This channel, on the fide towards and fmail islands, which extends as far as the Straits of Bahama, and on the fide towards the ifland of Cuba, by many banks and rocks, which run our fo far that the land is not in fight.

and coming only in breezes; but as The wind continued casterly, light, the current ran to the weftward, we happily got through in four days. I was furprized that most of the fhips bound to the weftward fhould expofe themselves to a long paffage and calms, which often prevail to the S. W. of the Ifland of Cuba, by taking that courfe to avoid the paffage of the old channel, which is by no means dangerous, with proper attention. We afterwards fteered our courfe for the Matanza, a mountain lying within land, weftward of a bay of the fame name: its fummit rifes above the ofrom whence it is called the Cap of ther mountains, in the form of a cap, Maianza, and ferves for a fand-mark. Soon after, we had fight of the Havannah, in the fame Ifland of Cuba: fteering from thence, N. W. and keeping farther from there, we stood for the found of the Turtle Islands. These da, and the found S. of them. We inlands bear S. W. from Cape Florifounded and found fifty-two fathom with a bottom of fand and grey gravel; but S. S. W. of them, at the diftance of five leagues, when they are nearly out of fight, being very low, we found fifty fathom, bottom of fand and white gravel. This bottom is a certain indication of the found. We haled up a little to the westward, to avoid being embayed in the gulph of Florida, and were foon out of founding. We had fome calms, and

Yaw many dolphins, which were about five feet long, and very thick; they are curious, from the variety of their fine colours, which change every

moment.

We were fomewhat fearful of the current from the Strait of Bahama: it appeared fingular to me that the currents of this ftrait, from fouth to north, (which is clearly only the effect of the trade winds and the bearings of the coaft) are the most rapid when the northerly winds blow ftrongeft. I can explain this phenomenon only by fuppofing that the northerly winds, when they are the most violent, drive the waves with great force over the range of rocks and fhoals which extend towards the E. S. E. The waves, thus driven over the rocks, raife the water of the ftrait above the height of the ocean, which endeavouring to recover its level, caufes a more rapid current than when the fea is calm and fmooth.

The wind freshened, and we fteered, for founding, between the river Mobille and the S. E. mouth of the river Millifippi; thefe we made in 40 fathom water, a bottom of black mud, and continued ftanding on in thefe foundings. We fteered this courfe because, being then N. E. of the foutheaftern and fouthern entrances, we had the benefit of the current from the former, which drove us within fight of the land mark. We had a view of this beacon at the diftance of five leagues, and anchored two leagues N. E. of it, to avoid the force of the ftream, and any danger from the drift wood. The bottom of the river Mobille is a black mud, that of the S. E. mouth of the M filippi is a white flime, mixed with fome grains of fine fand; that of the land mark, of mu equally white, but without fand. If, on falling in with the land, the navigator does not take the precautions above mentioned, he runs a risk of being driven paft the fouth-eaft mouth and the eastern and fouthern channels Ff2

of the great mouth, and alfo of being
driven to the S. W. paft the weftern
channel, of the fame mouth where the
current fets down into the bay of St.
Bernard, which is little known, and
very dangerous, on account of the
fand banks and funken coafts. The
great mouth of the river which is to
the fouth, divides into feveral chan-
nels, formed by fome fmail, low
iflands, which, in times of flood, are
One of thefe.
often overflowed.
iflands, fituated weft of the fouth en-
trance, had been occupied by the
French, who had there erected a land
mark, for fecurity of fhips coming in
with that part of the coaft which is
overflowed. The Spaniards have tak-
en poffeffion of another ifland, east of
the fouth-eaftern entrance, where they
have raifed a battery, erected a land-
mark, and eftablished pilots for this
new paffage, which appeared to me
more convenient than the old one:
in fact, hips arriving almost always
from the eastward, and the wind ge-
nerally blowing from that quarter, a
N. W. is more convenient than a
northerly courfe; they are alfo lefs
in danger of being driven to the weft-
ward, towards the Bay of St. Ber-
nard. Both the paffages are difficult,
and even in the latter, there is at the
utmoft but eighteen feet water, and we
were obliged to fteer very carefully
in a very rapid ftream.

We entered with a pilot.

I was furprifed at the beauty of this river; its waters running into the fea, do not lofe either their whiteness or frafhnefs, for two or three leagues: the ftrength of the current is alfo felt at that diftance, which frequently roots up, and brings down with it large trees, that are very dangerous to navigators.

Thefe trees being often flopped in the bed of the river, accumulate, in time, and form dykes against the curtent; but the noife this obftruction occafions is heard at a confiderable diftance, and gives notice to be awar

of them. The free and general current of the river is at least two leagues ant a halfin an hour. This great rapidity caufes the water to fwell at the fides, and makes it, in many places, take a direction different from that of the middle. We profited by this reflux, notwithstanding which, we went up very flowly, the wind being weak, and the current exceedingly rapid, in fome places.

Our impatience was augmented by a prodigious quantity of gnats and flies. whofe fting was infupportable. The fhores of the river are formed of funken and marshy lands, covered only with reeds which are well adapted for breeding thefe infects. It feems as if nature took a pleafure in multiplying their fpecies, and in rendering their ftings fharp; they give pain in a variety of fhapes, differing according to their form, their fize, or colour. The fight of an immenfe extent of thefe reeds, always verdant, very lofty, and undulating in the wind, would form a very pleafing view, were we not aware that they harboured fuch venomous inhabitants. During the heat of the day, the most troublesome of thefe infects was a fpecies of fly, called "ftrike quick," which never fails to fting the moment it fettles, and that fo feverely that the blood in tantly follows; from which circumftance it has received its name; the coolness on the approach of night, makes thefe flies retire, and clouds of gnats, muskeroes, and other infects, fucceed them. Nothing but a very thmoke will drive them away, a remedy to which the inhabitants of Louifiana have recourfe.

About ten leagues from the entrance of the Miffifippi, is the feparation of that branch of the river which forms the fouth-eaft mouth. A little higher up, on the fame fhore, we faw the oyfter cove; these fish are of a prod gious fize, and their fhells are ufed to make lime, there being no limeftone in this country. Thefe marfhy

fhores of the river ferve alfo as a retreat for a vaft number of water fowl, of every denomination, which are fo fat, that the induftry of the inhabi tants of New Orleans has been roused to extract an oil from them, which forms a fmall branch of commerce.

Fifteen leagues from the mouth, we came to the ftrait of the Plaquemines, fo called from a wild fruit of that name, which is very good. Here the land begins to rife above the water, the river is skirted with high, large, and majeftic trees, which, being intermixed with fhrubs, form a very thick wood. On entering these woods, the foil, covered with decayed leaves, prefents fome agreeable walks, when they are not interrupted by trees fallen by age, or by ftagnant waters. The thickness of the trees forms a fhade impenetrable to the fun. The fwans and the birds called cardi nals please the eye by the beauty of their colours: the plumage of the lat ter is equal to that of any bird in Eu rope. The river has plenty of wild ducks, and other birds fit for food, in places adapted to harbour them. Many forts of large fih may be caught here by the line; among others dabs and thornbacks; the fharp weapons thefe fish are furnished with make the fishermen fometimes repent their too great alertnefs; the wounds they make is followed by a fwelling of the injured parts.

In this reach we encountered fo violent a ftorm, that the hawfer with which we were made faft to a tree parted, and we were driven towards the oppofite fide of the river. Our topmaft, which was only about two inches and a half diameter, broke, it was very fort, but had indeed neitret fhrouds nor ftay to fupport it, as our veffel was only about fixty tons burthen. In this river they make the veffels faft to trees on the fhore, becaufe if they came to anchor, they would probably leave their anchors among funken trees.

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We foon began to find inhabitants, but the barveft is not in any place fo fine and fo abundant as in this. The houfes of the inhabitants are agreeable enough, they are built fome few feet above the earth, to guard them from the damp, from ferpents and other venomous animals, which are ftill however very dangerous, [To be continued.].

and plantations of rice and Indian corn. Rice is generally fowed in places where the land is only about two feet above the level of the water, in order to cut channels for fuch a fupply of that commodity as is neceflary for its cultivation. Indian corn is cultivated in all parts of Louifiana,

Defcription of Monte Rofa, by Monf. Sauffure.

MOUNT Rofe (Monte Rofa,) is

the principal hill of the fouthern boundary of the chain of the Alps, as Mount Blanc rifes over the northern boundary of the fame chain. This mountain may be feen from all the plains of Piedmont and Lombardy, from Turin, from Padua, from Milan, and even far beyond it. Yet it has never been defcribed: by many travellers it has not been mentioned; and from thofe in whofe works it occurs, no very exact information can be obtained: Monf. Sauffure was eager to examine it, and began his journey with his fon in July of last year: his tour contains fome fingular circumftances. In his way he vifited the noble collection of baron Erlach, at Lausanne, where he found not only a beautiful collection of the ores of Saxony and other countries, but the most compleat collection, which exifts, of the minerals of Switzerland, and particularly the cryftallized feld fpaths and fchorls, and the tourmalines of St. Gothard. From Laufanne they proceeded to Vevay, to Martigny, to Sierre, and to Viege. In the last ftage they crof fed the torrent of Millgrabe, one of thofe rapid and tranfitory ftreams which fall from the Alps with inconceivable violence, and pafs away with the ftorm which contributes to their fury. The ftream of Millgrabe had hollowed the ground to a great depth,

and covered its banks with a large

quantity of yellowifh earth. All this had been done the day before, and it was already almoft dry. A quarter of a league beyond it, if the traveller turns to the right, he fees a kind of funnel, compofed of high mountains, whofe bare fides are furrowed by the ftreams which fupply the torrent, and are covered with earth of the fame colour.

M. Sauffure then defcribes the paffage over the Simpione, in French the Simplon, which fome authors have raifed to the rank of a faint, ftyling it Saintomb: its greatest elevation is 1029 toifes. This part our countrytryman, Mr. Coxe, fcarcely faw, and we fhall transcribe M. Sauffure's bold and animated defcription of the paffage.

"On the fide of Switzerland the traveller paffes through beautiful forefts, under the moft magnificent fhades, watered, not by torrents, but by rills, as gentle as they are limpid. The fide of Italy prefents, on the contrary, rocks the moft abrupt and the moft terrible; like enormous walls, fharpened to a point, and fo near, that a fingle block of granite rolled from the mountain is fufpended between the walls of the valley, and ferves as a bridge from one bank to the other. At fome diftance the torrent precipitates itself into abyffes,with fuck violence, that the drops broken

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