THE CATARACT OF THE MAWDDACH.

The river here forces itself down a rock betwixt fifty and fixty feet in height, whofe ftrata lying in parallel lines feveral degrees inclined from the hori zon, give the scene a fingularly crooked appearance. The stream is thrice broken in its defcent, and the bafon into which it is precipitated is very large. The rocks and trees form an amphitheatre, around, and the foreground was finely broken by the large pieces of rock that had been once loofened from above. I had to cross the stream before I could fee the upper part of the fall, which was hidden by intervening rocks. In this station the scene appeared complete, and it was certainly picturesque.

PISTYLL Y CAIN *,

The Spout of the Cain, is by far the highest and most magnificent cataract of the three. A narrow ftream rushes down a vast rock, at least a hundred and fifty feet high, whofe horizontal strata run in irregular fteps through its whole breadth, and form a mural front. Thefe, indeed, are fo regular, as in a great measure to destroy the picturesque effect of the scene, unless they are nearly hidden by a much greater volume of water than ufual. Immenfe frag

*The word Pillyll, in the Welsh language, fignifies a narrow ftream of water, fomewhat refembling that which iffues through a spout.

ments

ments of broken rock at the foot of the fall, fcattered in every different direction, communicate a pleafing effect; and the agreeable mixture of tints of the dark oak and birch, with the yellower and fading elm, formed altogether a highly pleasing scene.

My guide to the waterfalls was an Englishman, who keeps a small public houfe near Dolmelynllyn. His name is Bartlet. He has refided in Wales only a few years, and is yet fcarcely able to speak the language of the country.

CHAP. VI.

DOLGELLE TO MACHYNLLETH.

View of the Country around Dolgelle.-The Pool of the three Pebbles; and Tradition respecting the enormous Giant Idris.-The Blue Lion, and Edward Jones.-Ascent to the Summit of Cader Idris. Account of Idris.-Cafcades.-Llyn y Cae Prospect from the Summit of Cader Idris.- Cataract near the Blue Lion,- Machynlleth.-Mr. Aikin's Defcription of the Devil's Bridge, near Havod in Cardiganfbire.

FROM the road leading to Machynlleth, and at the distance of about two miles, the town of Dolgelle is feen to greater advantage than from most other points of view. It appears in the midst of a vale replete with pastoral beauty. The wide river Mawddach in the distance, reflects its filvery whiteness in the bofom of high and dreary mountains. The intervening space exhibits luxuriant woods, meadows, and corn-fields, intersected by the river Wnion, which ferpentizes along the vale.

The road now paffes over high and fwampy moors, and for fome miles the scenery is wild, dreary, and comfortless. The lofty Cader Idris, its fummit obfcured in clouds, formed the entire boundary of these wilds towards the fouth-west.

THE

THE POOL OF THE THREE PEBBLES.

This is a small pool on the left of the road about five miles from Dolgelle. The Welsh call it Llyn Trigrainwyn. It has its name from the three huge fragments of rock that are seen by its fide, which the traditions of the peafantry affert to have been what the giant Idris called three pebbles. This huge man, from whom the adjacent mountain had its name, was one day walking round his poffeffions in these mountains, when, fays tradition, he found fomething had fallen into his fhoe that began to hurt his foot. He pulled it off, and threw out these three pebbles, after which he experienced no further inconvenience! One of these pebbles is about four and twenty feet long, eighteen broad, and twelve high. So much for tradition!

The pool is believed to be bottomlefs; but, though this is not the cafe, its depth for fo fmall a furface of water is uncommonly great, being, as I was told, upwards of fifty fathoms.

I had not got far beyond this pool, when I found the profpect become fomewhat interesting. A pleafing vale now prefented itself, which inclofes a pool about a mile in length, called Llyn Mwyngil, The Lake of the Pleafant Retreat. This is bounded by hills.

THE

THE BLUE LION..

As I was anxious to afcend Cader Idris, and, although the weather had become very unfavourable, as I fhould lose all opportunity of doing it if I proceeded any farther at prefent, I ftopped at the Blue Lion, a fmall public house, a little beyond the pool of the Three Pebbles. It had begun to rain very hard a little before my arrival, and, as it was then late in the day, I determined to remain here all night, in the hope that before morning the weather might clear up. Not having yet dined, I inquired what I could have to eat, but found, as Dr. Johnson did at Glenelg, in the Highlands of Scotland, that, "of the provifions, the negative catalogue was very copious." I could have no meat (except bad bacon), no eggs, no wine, no spirits. It was needless to inquire further into what I could not have, I therefore directed the good woman of the house to bring me any thing that was eatable. Bread and butter, and new ale, taken evidently from the tub in which it was fermenting, constituted therefore my principal fare at this cottage for two days. I have had occafion to remark, through both my journies, that the ale is generally drank within a few days of its being brewed, at most of the small inns in Wales. The labouring people fee it taken from the tub with unconcern, and feem to relish it as much, while fermenting, as they would if it was drawn from the cafk. If it has but the name of

Cwrw,